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Al Urdun Awwalan

A ow yes it is hot. The six less than a quarter of an afternoon in late May and it is quite unthinkable to leave the house. The cheerful room Jada Quli, Sarujah Suq district, dusty and messy, empties slowly, while Musafir prepares to revolutionary changes with enthusiasm and serenity. I will miss this house, the still air that is breathed, the long, relaxed conversations in the afternoon, the doors and windows painted blue, the endless games One and paste the weekend, his neighborhood is so intimate and welcoming, where you all at the palm of your hand, the girls veiled timid salute from the window beside the horse that pulls the cart of vegetables, tea ... by Firas Yes, it was a good time spent in this place.

M to switch to serious things: first that the violent waves of university social life overwhelm me, I wish I could say something about that beautiful trip ended just a week ago in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan . A couple of points, I think, as usual.
Note: Photos of Al Musafir have moved: no more can be found on Flickr but on the new Photobucket . Maybe a little 'less beautiful and functional first, but at least there are no limits as to the ridiculous number of photos you can upload: this is the link, enjoy! All photos on Flickr were transferred here. Just to get an overall view of the recent trips I've done ...

Wednesday, May 9
8 Hours: 48 hours even after the end of the stage to umami Muttahida , And sat on the luxury coach Jett that will take us from Damascus to the nearby Jordanian capital Amman. A trip prepared relatively quickly, with little attention to detail, as it should be, funny, spontaneous. Exactly what it takes to separate the two periods and two completely different experiences, the internship and study, half of my long stay perfect in this strange and complicated Middle East. A country of which I have heard (a little) and that for a while 'I wanted to visit, but never got the chance. And what better time, in May broke from all these changes, and the pleasant company of fellow-roommate-friend Julie?
Routard Jordan in his hand, then, and we start south. Travel between the capital lasted little more than four hours total, of which two large waiting at the border, the rest of the short stretch that separates Damascus from Amman. Usual controls, excessive and extremely superficial usual formalities, a nice new stamp on the passport, stop forced the huge Duty Free border, where everything should cost less (but the Syrian border when they buy cigarettes in the street are cheaper do not understand them) : and we are on the other side. Scroll down briefly on the recent history of Jordan Routard , its liberalization and peace with Israel, the new king and its problems with terrorism and with the Palestinians, that there is oil, that straf ** in Rania. Incidentally, the Urdun awwalan, "Jordan First" is the phrase that always accompanies the pictures of King Abdullah scattered cities of the country.
From the window of the bus to greet the Faccioni Assad father and son, and, twenty yards ahead, "Welcome to Jordan", we meet the new couple, the former King Hussein and his son, King Abdallah. Habit, therefore, in these countries, megaritratti in pairs. Even if Ataturk had no one close to him ... Even wearing clothes
Abdallah military, whites, however, and one thing I know subito: ha la faccia più simpatica, un sorriso più sincero e gli occhi che guardano dritti nell’obiettivo. Come se fosse più sereno, più sicuro della sua posizione, più convinto dell’appoggio del suo popolo. Una sensazione avuta più volte in Giordania, anche sulla gente. E fare paragoni con la Siria è diventato il metro di giudizio più naturale per farci un’idea del paese durante tutto il viaggio, e, per quello che ho potuto capire in una settimana, le differenze sono tante.
Arriviamo ad Amman nelle ore più calde del pomeriggio, anche se il cielo è leggermente annuvolato e un forte vento soffia tra le colline su cui si stende la capitale. Ci diamo un paio d’ore per visitare la città and put something in his stomach: by the evening we want to be in Petra, our first goal. Once past the horde of taxi drivers and tour operators local shady looking to offer their services to convincing us that there is no alternative, we are moving heavily toward the center, passing the first terminal Abdali, to understand how to proceed later to the south , and a crazy driver of a servis arrive at the "center" of Amman. Curious, that servis taxi in Jordan are painted white, dented vans and fast, as in Syria.
Amman: plenty of low houses of rectangular gray carpet and seven colline, nessun centro storico, solo una cittadella con un paio di colonne e un teatro romano. Nulla, ma proprio nulla di quell’antichissima Philadelphia , capitale di non mi ricordo quale regno presemitico. Una città che dà l’impressione di essere moderna, ordinata e pulita, ma che non sembra offrire nulla di particolarmente attraente, nè sembra particolarmente attiva intellettualmente. Il centro, disposto sulla valle più importante, è stranamente poco frequentato, e posti per prendere un té o riposarsi ce ne sono pochi. Non vale la pena neanche di entrare dentro la cittadella per pagare due dinari (due euro) e vedere uno stupido museo. No, decisamente meglio Damasco, più vivibile, più interessante, più autentica.
Shawarma e Kebab al ristorantino sul terminal Abdali , dunque, e prendiamo l’autobus verso il terminal sud, dove ci aspetta un altro mini autobus stracolmo che ci porta sulla lunga strada per Wadi Musa, villaggio alle porte di Petra, nel sud est del paese. Quattro infinite ore di viaggio, distrutti, arriviamo al nostro Sabaa Hotel , in pieno (mini)centro di Wadi Musa. Un costosissimo (6 dinari!) ma squisito mix arrosto ci allieta il riposo, e nel semplice e confortevole alberghetto prendiamo subito sonno, pronti per lunghe e avventurose escursioni tra le valli rocciose dell’antica capitale nabatea.

Thursday, May 10
21 dinars, not even the Palacatania Laura Pausini: so much is the ticket to Petra, the most famous tourist and archaeological site in the Middle East after the Pyramids. Prices in Jordan tourist horrified us, we are incredulous at the figures used ridiculous for any type of purchase in Syrian territory. No reduction, needless to our international student card remedied illegally - by presenting certificates of Ca 'Foscari not really reliable - in Damascus. I understand they need to do their work Jordanian economy to grow, but a bottle of water may not cost me I would pay twice as much as the Venice. A constant throughout the troubled (financially) travel in the following days. The beauty is that sleep one night in a hotel is cheaper than eating a chicken dish, to Petra, Wadi Rum as the Red Sea. The only distinction made is between Jordanians and, that the Jordanians and tourists do not pay anything, they are Lebanese, Chinese and Sicilian, everything. Out of these three centers, among other things, the prices are only slightly more expensive than in Syria, but very little.
Ok, vent financial finished, continue with the story.
The day starts early, relatively, at nine o'clock we are at the entrance to Petra, to pay 21 dinars these blessed, and so to the long day of exploration.
Petra, from the greek Petra, the Nabataean or Batra ', I have not understood very well. Certainly if, as in Arabic, Batra ' means "the incomparable, the name fits much more.
The capital was built between the massive desert valleys of these mountains more than two thousand years ago, only to be taken and used first by the Romans, then by the Byzantines and then Arabs. Rich and influential political and commercial center of the Nabataean kingdom, he went to the long decline from the Roman conquest. But who are 'sti Nabataeans? One reminder: the nightmare of Semitic philology, one of really feared a few tests Ca'Cappello: here is named as a Semitic language Nabataean cuneiform, Aramaic daughter or sister, but as I know. It's enough to arouse a sense of disgust and contempt for the strange people. What can I say, these are crazy Nabataeans, to build a city so huge, ingeniously designed, self-invincible, unbeatable, exactly.
Few tourists, hamdulillah, already from the entrance. Although the ancient city during the day is filled with hordes of Trentino groups with hats and Arabic multilingual guides. The thing though is not heavy, because the place is big enough for everyone, and take various alternative routes you island quickly.
The day is not the best, and with a tendency all'uggioso early morning mist - a little annoying, actually. Soon, however, that we understand that time was a fluke: it would have been much worse march and climb mountains for hours under the scorching sun, with little space in the shade and water to quench our thirst tiepidiccia.
The valley in which lay the ruins of the city is huge, tens of kilometers long, a path full of twists and with dozens of branches that lead up the hills and hidden shelves. The mountains rise high out of nowhere in the middle of the desert that stretches from Syria south to Yemen. And certainly the thing that is clear more of these long mountains that cover the southern Jordan and come to Israel, the conformation is rocky. Red, the color of the huge valley. Millions of years of sedimentation have given to the walls of the valley of the shades in bright colors and magically mixed. Purplish red, ocher, yellow, bright blue, purple, white ... here the walls of Petra, a mosaic of colors in perfect harmony, the huge palette of a Dadaist who draws lines and sinuous shapes that intertwine and stained walls rising hundreds of feet ... Rounded rocks, tall thin mo 'stalactites, and a few plants growing between the rocks round the soft and beautiful landscape. And those crazy Nabatean decided capital to build their buildings by carving on the walls of these mountains.
The route of visiting Petra starts with a short walk outside, a first temple carved into the rock saffron, then to begin the path to true in the valley. It is a feast for the eyes and a nice prelude to the massive surprises that follow, to walk in the narrow street between the curved walls and stained, following the path of the water canals that supplied the capital, the silence interrupted only by some tourist and cart voices of passers-by. A landscape that immediately reminded me of the necropolis Pantalica , a couple of hours south of Mount Etna, with its grandi montagne brulle attraversate dal piccolo fiume Anapo .
E poi, all’improvviso, dietro una curva, la vallata si apre, ed in tutta la sua maestosità appare il Khozne (“tesoro”), l’imponente tempio che apre la strada all’ingresso della città. Una parete alta un centinaio di metri e dal colore rosso ocra tendente al rosa, all’interno della quale è scolpita la facciata del luogo di culto più importante di Petra. Le grosse colonne, statue, iscrizioni, perfino lo stipite è intagliato: l’importanza del tempio sembra risolversi tutta n ella sua facciata, e le stanze interiori risultano piccole e spoglie. Cerchiamo senza successo di immaginare come diavolo abbiano potuto costruire questi edifici nella roccia, partendo da che lato, e come abbiano fatto a levigarla e lavorarla così bene. Un mistero. I turisti si accumulano sul piazzale davanti al tempio, dove sono comparsi anche i primi bar beduini e un paio di poveri cammelli sfiniti e spaesati: meglio proseguire. Siamo alla parte iniziale della città, dedicata ad una serie di tombe poste ai lati, in basso e in alto. Ogni tomba è alta una ventina di metri, le più importanti anche molto di più: quella dell’ultimo primo ministro dei nabatei, posta in alto su un promontorio, vale una visita, e ci arrampichiamo subito sulle rocce scivolose. Ne vale la pena, perchè da sopra la vista the valley is beautiful: the huge buildings that are all one with the mountains, the colors, the silence ... the landscape is an epic tale of the best and most beautiful ... I'm not surprised you the great Tolkien had been inspired by here for a description of his Minas Tirith or better Rivendell. I think any description and no photo can match or transmit the sensation of vision in these places.
Later on, always on top, the whole of the Tombs of the Kings offer a view of a temple rebuilt in the Byzantine church, a veritable palace-tomb, gigantic, and some 'hidden, the tomb of a powerful Roman general, Sestio Fiorentino , credo.
Si scende verso il centro della città, su una sorta di via romana mattonellata, che pullula di bambini e ragazzi anneriti dal sole a dosso di un povero asino o di un cammello, che ossessionano i turisti offrendo di fare un giro. Mentre camminiamo, un bambino ci chiede “wanna go for a ride?” (con queste parole) e poi “da dove venite, da Israele?” La domanda ci lascia letteralmente sotto shock: l’ultima cosa che ci aspettiamo è pensare di trovare turisti israeliani in un paese arabo... dopo mesi e mesi di indottrinamento antisemita made in Syria suona davvero strano. Eppure vuol dire che ce ne sono, di turisti. Anche in alberg o del resto c’erano canali israeliani... ecco una grande differenza tra Siria e Giordania.
I bambini diventano fastidiosi, e non ci piace vederli picchiare i poveri animali o fare a botte per gioco, mentre mangiamo il nostro lauto pasto di pane e formaggino sotto l’ombra di un albero, vicino al centro di ristoro per turisti. Una cultura violenta e difficilmente comprensibile, per noi, figuriamoci per i turisti pacchetti-tutto-compreso-4-giorni. Non credo che una cosa del genere possa aiutare a sfatare i pregiudizi sui paesi arabi.
Ma la tabella di marcia ci impone di proseguire: ci aspetta una lunghissima scalata che porta sull’altura del Monastero , altro edificio importante di Petra: quasi un’ora in salita per più di 700 scalini sotto il sole che nel frattempo è spuntato, tanto sudore e poca acqua rimasta, ma la vista all’arrivo è ancora una volta splendida: il tempio, poi monastero bizantino, è ancora più imponente e affascinante del Khozne ; ma forse ancor più vale la salita la vista del paesaggio di aguzze montagne davanti alle infinite distese del deserto, che si scorgono nella nebbia bassa proseguendo dietro il monastero. Un silenzio ancora più mistico e intenso accompagna la vista. Ecco dove sta la bellezza estrema di Petra: il connubio felicissimo tra fascino della storia e della natura, tra interesse archeologico e avventuroso-naturalistico.
Un po’ di sano riposo, altro ottimo panino con formaggino and it's off to the next destination ... the other path proposed by the guides, the one that leads to the heights of the sacrifice. We return quickly back to the early graves, where the tour starts, perhaps in a hurry because they are the five Petra and closes at sunset. And another way to endless hiking staircase in the middle of beautiful nature this time, the shoes destroyed but should still see a lot, and at the top, the two obelisks fire red mark the place where it says once flowed blood of animals sacrificed to some god angry. The alternative route back is even more fascinating for a few seconds even if there is a doubt be lost and it does not reassure since it became a bit 'late. So much so that back on the road there is also no longer even a shadow of a tourist, and the thought of being locked in the ancient valleys for a night, though seductive, is ruled as unlikely and risky. On the walk back to the present, no tourist, but, very curiously, many many Jordanian Arabs, Bedouins, families, groups of friends, couples, went for a walk now and enjoy a bit too 'historic charm. Petra at sunset back to being Arab, very charming.
We even walk the path from the archaeological site to the hotel, some four kilometers in height: before the crazy prices of the taxis do not stop us even the fatigue of eight hours of hiking.
It was a long, wonderful and exhausting day, we are also destroyed and our feet are stinking it: the nice shower and rest lautissimo meal (with bread and hummus, canned sardines: yuck!) Comes without hesitation, a deep sleep and deserved.